DS Helmets
| Wheel | Stock Size | Previous (3500 miles) | Current |
|---|---|---|---|
| Front | MT 1.85x19 | 100/90-19 TL | 110/80-19 TL |
| Cheng Shin Hi-Max C906 | Shinko 705 Dual Sport Front | ||
|
|
||
| Rear | MT 2.15x18 | 110/90-18 TL | 120/80-18 TT |
| Cheng Shin Hi-Max C907 | Shinko 705 Dual Sport Rear | ||
|
|
| KTM Military Folding Mirror |  |
| Kimpex Heated grips |  |
| Hot-Grips |  |
| Handlebar | |
| Indicator/marker lights | |
| Pivot Pegz |  |
| Stebel Nautilus Compact |  |
| Bosch H4 conversion reflector (0301600118) |  |
| HID Hi/Lo kit. |  |
| Deflector Screen |  |
| Cooling Fan |  |
| Shindengen FH012AA MOSFET Voltage Regulator/Recitifier | |
| Eastern Beaver R/R wiring. | |
Bend Width Height Pull Back CR High Bend 31.63" 4.50" 3.80" KX High Bend 31.50" 4.25" 3.07" CX500 32.50" 2.00" 3.50" * I must be measuring wrong becaue the stock bars aren't substantially different from the KX bend.
| Dimension | Measured | Order |
|---|---|---|
| F1 | Banjo 10mm - 20 degree | |
| F2 | Banjo 10mm - straight | |
| Length A | 1016mm (40 inches) | 1050mm |
| Distance L1 | 190.5mm (7.5 inches) | 190mm |
| Length U | 419.1mm (16.5 inches) | 430mm |
* 6204 - 20x47x14
* 6302 - 15x42x13
* 6304 - 20x52x15
New Odometer: 57887.5
SBS Ceramic brake pads.
Machined 12L14 muffler seal.
New Odometer: 57142.0
Changed oil, oil filter, plugs (D9EA).
New Odometer: ?????
New Odometer: 48463
Oil twice, plugs, air filter, tires before trip to FLNew Odometer: 4????.?
Replaced battery: Yuasa 14L-A2 Replaced all brake/turn bulbs with LEDs (superbrightleds.com)New Odometer: 46727.0
Swapped tire set.
6870.6 more miles on the Shinko 705s (since 30 Sept 2013 - 39856.4 miles)
New Odometer: 44546.3
Changed oil, oil filter, plugs, air filter
New Odometer: 44102.1
Replaced mufflers, H-box
New Odometer: 43984.9
Replaced radiator, indicators
New Odometer: 41818.3
Cleaned carbs
New Odometer: 41757.8
Spark plugs
New Odometer: 41530.4
Replaced carb isolators, rubber bits.
New Odometer: 41131.7
Fitted ZRX shocks, shimmed forks.
New Odometer: 40229.3
Changed oil, filter.
Adjusted valves.
Tensioned cam chain.
Re-sealed left side muffler/H-box fitting.
New Odometer: 39856.4
Exhaust work.
Swapped in Shinko 705 wheelset.
712s have 2514.3 miles; less than 1/3rd worn?
New Odometer: 38653.0
Re-welded exhaust collector seam. Patched holes.
Painted.
New Odometer: 37648.7
Changed oil+filter.
New Odometer: ~37342.1
Shinko 712 tires (F&R)
Front Cheng Shin had 8719.1 (3535 + 5183) miles on it. Worn out.
Rear D404 had 3280 miles on it. Probably good for another 2k.
New Odometer: ~36827.6
Adjusted valves.
Tensioned cam chain.
New Odometer: ~35523.0
Changed just oil.
New Odometer: ~34462.8
Replaced air filter (Emgo 12-91100)
New Odometer: ~34061.0
Rear Cheng Shen picked up a puncture.
Replaced with a Dunlop D404; all that I could find on short notice.
New Odometer: 32926.4
Replaced front cover gasket.
Replaced oil, radiator fluid.
New Odometer: ~32625.0
Swapped in slightly less bad/blown shocks.
Mounted the new rear 705, with a tube this time. We'll see.
Attempted to adjust the bearings -- think the spacer was too long so dressed the ends a little.
New Odometer: 32158.9
Rear Shinko 705 developed a huge bulge/ply separation. Tires had 336 + 3842.4 = 4208.4 miles and were going to be replaced within the next 500 miles. First set had 4618.7, a difference of 410.3 miles.
Pulled Kenda K-760s off of original wheels and reinstalled take off Cheng-Shins
New Odometer: 31844.8
Adjusted valves.
Tensioned cam chain.
Replaced spark plugs (NGK D8EA)
Re-torqued rear axle.
New Odometer: 31844.8
Changed oil, filter.
Altered pannier loop dogs.
New Odometer: 31297.7
Replaced head bearings (All-Balls tapered bearing kit)
Welded up broken steering stop tab.
Welded up broken turn signal bracket.
New Odometer: 30780.0
Adjusted clutch free-play.
Replaced rear brake light switch.
Applied reflective tape.
New Odometer: ~30738.0
R/R install.
New Odometer: 30322.9
Date Time Gal Miles MPG
---------- ----- ----- ------ -----
11/26/2011 01:47 1.512 58.3 38.56
11/21/2011 06:35 2.804 104.3 37.19
11/19/2011 12:23 1.529 57.4 37.54
11/19/2011 11:03 1.593 60.9 38.23
11/11/2011 06:29 1.720 59.8 34.77
11/10/2011 06:43 1.693 62.4 36.85
11/09/2011 07:01 1.546 64.2 41.53
11/08/2011 06:21 1.517 60.9 40.15
11/07/2011 06:40 1.981 77.9 39.32
11/04/2011 06:30 1.518 61.1 40.25
10/30/2011 19:00 1.779 71.8 40.36
10/25/2011 22:37 1.778 74.9 42.13
10/23/2011 19:13 1.547 60.2 38.91
10/14/2011 17:35 2.037 75.5 37.06
10/10/2011 18:17 1.473 60.1 40.80
New Odometer: ~29950.0
Oil change.
Installed new rack/subframe
New Odometer: 29536.8
Replaced (again) rear wheel bearings.
Removed set had only 1193.9 miles on them.
New Odometer: 29310.x
Installed 90C thermal switch.
New Odometer: 28685.6
Pulled engine, inspected driveshaft.
Installed new exhaust gaskets.
Sealed mufflers with paste & tape.
New Odometer: 28666.6
Removed rear wheel and inspected bearings - OK
Drained and re-filled final drive oil.
New Odometer: 28491.4
Swapped in a different 85C NO thermal switch.
Flushed radiator.
New Odometer: 28424.6
Installed radiator obtained from CX500 forum member ($15 +s/h)
Cleaned "new" radiator.
Finished wiring up thermal switch & fan relay.
Cleaned and painted radiator cowel.
Radiator fan switch clamp.
GL500 luggage
Finished panniers.
New Odometer: 28342.9
Replaced stator. (Via installation of original rear cover with new stator.)
Replaced:
Cleaned and painted engine.
New Odometer: 28342.9
Swapped out the K-760 wheelset for the Shinko 705s (185.3 miles)
Might try putting tubes in them to see if they get less squirrely.
As is, they are very sloppy and impercise while cornering, lose traction rapidly at even moderate lean angles and exhibit low speed front wheel "seeking."
They're fantastic off pavement though.
GSX-R1000 fan radiator mounts fabricated.
GM/Dorman Weather Pack connectors.
2009,11 Suzuki GSX-R1000 fan
New Odometer: 28157.6
Swapped in the K-760 wheelset.
New Odometer: 27800.0???
Replaced inline fuel filter. Replaced fuel line with larger ID line. (This fixed the off idle stumbling I think.)
Cleaned coil primary wires.
Re-torqued all exhaust bolts/nuts.
Repaired crack in rack, added bracing.
CX500 crash bars.
1982 GL500. $150, from CL
VIN# JH2PC0206CM102014, Engine# PC02E-2102634
Mounted rear K-760 on original rear wheel.
Changed bearings, seals (All Balls) on original front & rear wheels.
New Odometer: 27791.6
Installed new rear Shinko
New Odometer: 27791.6
Old Shinkos had 4618.7 miles on them. Front was cupped badly and had the beginnings of tread block separation though no tearing yet. Rear tires were nearly down to the wear bars.
Mounted new Shinko E-705s on spare wheel set.
Removed front wheel and stripped tire. Will mount K-760s on original wheelset (front mounted already.)
Installed new front Shinko
New Odometer: 27791.6
Adjusted valves, cam chain tensioner.
Topped off final drive gear oil.
Replaced wheel bearings on spare wheel-set.
New Odometer: 27790.7
Oil & filter change.
New acorn nuts on exhaust clamps, and new H-box forward mount nut & bolt.
Repaired & painted H-box.
New Odometer: 26???.?
Date Time Gal Miles MPG
---------- ----- ----- ------ -----
02/12/2011 17:03 2.150 85.5 39.78
02/12/2011 13:15 2.371 98.9 41.71
02/06/2011 15:19 2.371 92.3 38.93
01/19/2011 17:37 1.618 55.6 34.36
11/28/2010 15:45 1.458 58.75 40.29
11/28/2010 13:40 2.021 68.9 34.09
Elephant ears!
Electrical monitor pod.
CX500 Custom rack
New Odometer: 26???.?
Finished mounting pannier racks. Still need to remove and make more gussets, but the mounts are all done.
New Odometer: 26968.7
Installed new carbs on bike.
Rebuilt carbs from Larry Cargill arrived. A steal at $265.00
New Odometer: 26803.3
Adjusted valves. Exhaust OK, Intake a little tight.
Adjusted cam chain.
Checked plugs. Left looks very rich, right is a tad rich.
Lubed clutch cable.
Replaced right hand front indicator bulb.
Replaced left hand foam grip.
New Odometer: 26784.6
Oil & filter change.
Installed RAM mounts & mini-USB power.
Date Time Gal Miles MPG
---------- ----- ----- ------ -----
11/21/2010 16:45 1.259 48.2 38.28
11/14/2010 17:00 2.397 103.0 42.97
11/14/2010 13:22 2.045 75.3 36.82
11/13/2010 11:31 2.606 103.9 39.87
10/30/2010 11:43 2.321 81.8 35.24
10/24/2010 16:19 2.412 105.2 43.62
10/24/2010 12:16 1.169 42.8 36.61
10/10/2010 14:49 1.961 91.9 46.86
10/10/2010 16:24 2.017 74.6 36.99
New Odometer: ?26106.3
Date Time Gal Miles MPG
---------- ----- ----- ------ -----
10/02/2010 18:51 3.233 124.8 38.6
New Odometer: 25981.5
Date Time Gal Miles MPG
---------- ----- ----- ------ -----
09/26/2010 17:46 1.869 87.5 46.8
09/26/2010 15:50 2.066 98.4 47.6
09/26/2010 13:41 2.070 83.75 40.5
09/25/2010 16:05 1.917 72.8 37.9
New Odometer: 25645.0
Replaced exhaust gaskets.
Balanced carbs.
New Odometer: 25354.2
Swapped temperature gauge & 7v temperature voltage regulator.
Installed eBay radiator.
Fabricated replacment choke control mounting plate.
Replaced radiator cap, thermostat, thermostat O-ring, and temperature sender.
Installed Bosch H4 headlamp.
New Odometer: 25150.0
Old Odometer: 26832 + ~300
Difference ~2000 miles
Swapped in "new" odometer.
Swapped cooling system components around attempting to isolate "overheating."
Radiator, radiator cap, thermostat, coolant (was 50/50, running straight water now.)
Odometer: 26832 + ~300
Replaced water pump housing gasket.
Installed new fan.
Need to replace thermostat bypass hose.
Odometer: 26832 + ~300
Pulled engine and replaced cam chain & tensioner.
Replaced oil & coolant.
Need to replace water pump cover gasket.
Swapped leaking (right side) shock-absorber.
Adjusted steering stem bearings.
Cleaned & lubed final drive splines.
Gasket kit from Sirius Consolidated arrived.
SHS Powersports reports no stock on cam chain guide. Ordered last one from R&D Powersports in PA.
Re-assembled gauge cluster and re-installed.
Stator from Wemoto arrived.
$314.32 (+$35 s/h) order from SHS Powersports.
Found & ordered some rear cover gaskets on eBay to replace those borrowed from my gasket kit. Grease all gaskets before installing!
Pulled dash and cracked open speedometer. Worn out splined shaft on the odometer drive.
Odometer failed on the ride back to Virginia
Pulled valves and set heads to soak in Pine-Sol bath.
Ordered G8 stator from Wemoto.
Ordered Gasket set from Sirius Consolidated
Spare engine rebuild in progress...
Pulled front & rear covers, flywheel, heads.
Odometer: 26161.8
Flushed & cleaned '78 radiator (with Muratic acid) and installed.
Temperatures still showing high.
Odometer: 26161.8
Ordered custom 50" line from Dash3 on the 6th.
Total with shipping, two bolts and four washers was $44.18
Odometer: 25xxx.x
Adjusted valves, timing chain. Checked plugs.
Odometer: 25957.5
Changed oil, filter
Installed new brake & clutch levers.
Odometer: 25920.6
New bars were not substantially taller than stock.
Not sure what the solution is, other than bar risers. ATV bars?
Re-Lubed speedo cable.
Installed National Cycle Deflector Screen
Attempted to lubricate and free up clutch able.
New clutch cable needed.
Installed KTM military folding mirrors.
Odometer: 25540
Replaced battery. Autocraft 14LA2.
Repaired left side exhaust pipe/muffler.
Odometer: 25468.7
Swapped rear cover (with new driveshaft, shifter, mechanical seal and camshaft oil seal) to fix failed stator.
Odometer: 25468.7
Changed front brake pads - less than a millimeter left.
The stator has gone bad. Yellow to yellow wire testing shows voltage in the range of 25-30 VAC.
I suppose this, rather than the half filled battery explains the bike stranding me a few weeks ago.
Also noticed that the tail-light is intermittent due to some problem with the ignition switch.
Odometer: 25172.9
The old tires had ~3500 miles on them. They are probably good for another 3000-4000 more.
Mounted
Tire fairy came!
Odometer: 24362.4
Installed Ignitech CDI & eBay coils.
Odometer - 24036.9
Adjusted valves, timing chain.
Checked spark plugs.
Left side looks a tad rich.
Right side looks a tad lean.
Fillup after mostly country riding: 44.0mpg
Finally got real protective gear:
Will think about actual riding boots and a better helmet next.
Fillup after riding a mix of rural, dirt/gravel, and highway: 43.46mpg.
Recent fillup after riding at highway speeds: 46.86mpg.
North of Leesburg, off Rt. 15
TKC80 Cheng Shin 858 Maxxis 6006 Kenda 207 King KT-966
Changed oil, filter. 23025.0
| Light | SAE# | wattage |
|---|---|---|
| Tail/Brake | 1157 | 8w/27w |
| Front Marker/Turn | 1034 | 8w/23w |
| Rear Turn | 1073 | 23w |
| Gauge/Dash | 57 | 3.4w |
Howe Scales - Ashburn
Bull Run Marina - Clifton
Sport & Health - McLean
Wakefield Park - Annandale
Downtown Rosalyn, VA
Downtown Rosalyn, VA
Calverton Market
Linden, VA
Linden, VA
Bleed the cooling system and the temperatures appear a little more within range.
Absent any callibrated sensors its difficult to understand whats actually going on. As usual I find myself wanting full EGT/CHT/oil/water/ambient data, and a wideband O2 sensor just for kicks.
Rebuilt the forks. I guess it feels better with the proper fork oil, though I suspect the use of a PVC insert to preload the springs would improve things.
Head bearings are the next thing on my list. I suspect this is the reason for high speed instability during lane changes etc.
| Temp | Ref | 12S | 11Q | 4T |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 140°F | 104.0Ω | 114.0Ω* | 114.0Ω* | 114.0Ω* |
| 185°F | 43.9Ω | 51.7Ω | 52.2Ω | 52.5Ω |
| 230°F | 20.3Ω | 25.6Ω | 25.0Ω | 26.0Ω |
| 248°F | 16.1Ω | 21.4Ω | 20.5Ω | 21.3Ω |
My 7 volt regulator reads 7.12 volts.
Measuring the temperature at the radiator cap I see ~200 °F. The resistance of the temperature sensor is ~35.5Ω, which according to the chart above is within rage of the reference.
The gauge reads the width of the red bar below the red.
My conclusion is that the overvoltage of the regulator and possible innacuracy in the gauge contribute to the high reading.
Adjusted valves and timing chain.
Sumerduck.
Pulled engine and replaced headgaskets with Honda OEM parts.
Pulled engine from most recent parts bike.
Old Bike Barn is finally getting around to shipping my gasket kit so I'll break it down, lap the valves, inspect things and put it back together so I have a spare engine ready to go.
Balanced the carbs. Idle mixture adjustments don't seem to have much effect so I suspect I've got dirty carbs.
Still having overheating problems, even after changing out everything (radiator cap, thermostat, radiator, voltage regulator.) Suspect I've got head gasket problems still. Not surprising actually.
Replaced the plugs and did the plug wire fix to remove the resistors.
Changed out the final drive oil. Level was low and oil was old. Noticed spatters on the rear wheel from heat induced venting.
Bike is running. Put 75 miles on it or so.
Pulled the engine last weekend and got the gear selector sorted out (misplaced metal bushing.) Pulled both heads and inspected head gasket. Installed correct oil O-ring. Replaced thermostat.
This weekend I fiddled with the front brakes, re-adjusted the front axle, fixed the rear brake light switch. Got the idle speed set. Need to think about rebuilding carbs and overhauling forks.
Got the engine hung Monday evening and the exhaust hung during lunch.
Looks like I've got a head-gasket leak. Hopefully its just because of the slightly oversized oil jet o-rings I ended up using.
Gear selector is very sticky and tight. Must have messed something up there too.
Need to replace the thermostat and the various o-rings in the cooling system.
Other than that, the engine runs well, sounds good. Probably needs the carbs rebuilt, but anyhow...
I finally gave up and called Old Bike Barn to find out what the heck was taking so long to get my gaskets. They're backordered!
I ordered a gasket set off of eBay which got here this past week. It appears to be less than complete but I had enough O-rings to make things work.
The engine is mostly back together. I pulled the clutch cover off and replaced the clutch shaft seal. I pulled the front cover and inspected the oil pan. Nothing of note. Adjusted the oil pump. Need to replace the oil pump chain at some point. Re-used the exiting front cover gasket. The cooling system probably needs new O-ring seals in the head to thermostat pipes.
Some hose clamps and a few bolts and the engine should run. I'll get some cheap oil to run for the first 500 miles.
Used the air nozzle to blow the water out of the cylinders and clear out the spark plug holes. Soaked the plugs with penetrating oil and pulled them. Soaked the pistons, then flushed everything with kerosene and ATF. Engine turns over just fine.
I think this is $80 well spent, even accounting for the drive.
Thats a brand new Metzeler tire.
Same tank that is on the '78.
Fuel valve leaks.
Stain from unplugged spark plug well drain.
Right intake port.
Left intake port.
Servicable radiator.
This one is a CX500-D. Other parts bike was a C.
VIN tag from the other parts bike (frame).
Registration expired in 2006.
The engine VIN ends with 9 while the frame VIN ends with 4.
Drove down south of Richmond this evening to pick up a 1980 parts bike, for $80. Hopefully the engine in this one is less frozen than the last one (seen below.) Will take pics tomorrow.
Everything except the engine gasket kit from BikeBarn arrived.
Pics of the engines.
Front
Inside the rear cover.
Still some adjustment left in the tensioner.
Everything is fairly clean.
Note the worn down block under the timing chain.
Tagged and bagged valves.
Got the cylinder deck cleaned off. Loaded up the garden sprayer I bought with kerosene and ATF and washed down the engine. Managed to get all the bits of gasket cleaned out of the water jackets. Garden sprayer works far better than anticipated, to the extent where an enclosure for the mud pan I'm using would be nice. I suspect a heated parts washer would be the correct answer here.
Right
Left
Put some primer to the engine mount and the radiator. I'm missing the grill for the "Custom" style radiator cowel I'd planned to use with this engine so I may end up using the 1978 cowel (which I like more.)
Primered engine mount.
Radiator, cleaned and primered.
Still need to sort out the heads. I suspect MEK will take care of the adhesive that was used to seal the head gasket on. Whatever was used is far more tenacious than the other blocks, thats for sure!
Right head.
Left head.
Ordered oil seals from Honda Parts Direct.
Ordered mechanical seal from Boats.net.
Worked on cleaning gasket surfaces and heads.
While waiting for solvent to soak in I decided to throw caution to the wind and really hammer on the frozen up engine from the 1980 parts bike.
Actually managed to move the pistons a bit, enough to apply the hone and scrape the worst rust out. While I'm skeptical of actually salvaging the block without overboring it might yet be possible to get a working engine out of it.
External oil seals:
Camshaft OIL SEAL (18X28X6) 91202-283-013 $6.58 Clutch lever shaft OIL SEAL (12X18X3) 91201-951-003 $2.14 Gear selector shaft OIL SEAL (14X26X6) 91251-ZW5-003 $2.39 Final shaft OIL SEAL (22X36X7) 91202-415-004 $7.53 Total: $18.64
Got the engine torn down a bit as inspection revealed possible rust/debris in the valves. Otherwise, engine is in good shape with pleanty of life left in the cam chain and tensioner.
Pulled the head and got the valves removed and bagged. Heads and valves will be cleaned and lightly lapped.
Pondering running stripped heads through the dishwasher.
(useful label for valve parts.)
Ordered a gasket kit. Need to see if local bike shop has Yamaha seal for under $20. Lots of scraping and cleaning of gasket surfaces left to do.
Purchased an engine, more or less complete with a bad mechanical seal. Tag attached claims it is from a 1980 CX500C. Serial number a few thousand lower than the frozen engine from the parts bike.
Paid $100.
Cross referenced part# is Yamaha 11H-12438-10-00.
Completely tore down the parts bike. Boxed and stored everything.
Engine is frozen up. Pulled heads. Pictures here later...
Left cylinder.
Right cylinder.
Engine is a total loss. Pistons rusted to the cylinders.
After much lurking on Craigslist I've procured another complete engine. It came attached to a more or less complete motorcycle.
1980 CX500 "Custom"
Looks to have been dropped at a low speed, probably high side get-off. I suspect that the engine was running fine when this occured and the right hand controls and pushed in case guard were never repaired.
The guy I got it from got it thrown in to a scrap metal deal. It was stored in a basement. Prior to that, it was stored outdoors by a former owner, who I suspect, was the person who dropped it/last had it running.
Last registration sticker is dated 1996.
Paid $180 for it.
I dropped the engine after dinner and got it moved under my tarp shelter. Top end looks to have had water exposure (looking down the exhaust ports at the valves.) We'll see what the cylinders look like when I pull the heads. I'm hopeful that this engine won't require much more than a new timing chain, mechanical seal and some gaskets. If it turns out to need new valves and valve guides I suppose that won't be a huge issue.
Right-front
Right-front
Left-rear
Left-front
Left engine
Left carb
Left battery box area
Left brake & wheel
Right final drive & wheel
Right airbox
Right carb
Right engine
Right front
Right rear
Right
Front
Rear
Gear Holder (top) and Clutch Center Holder (bottom)
A drill press and hand files...
Think thats coming off?
I spent hours shaping that damn tooth.
Oh for a mill (and a lathe).
Flywheel removed.
Flywheel puller tool still installed.
Back side of flywheel showing starter idler gear.
Cam chain and flywheel taper of crank.
Cam chain. Should not be this streched.
Notice worn away areas on the left where cam chain ground away at the block.
Cam chain guide and tensioner.
Oil pump.
Right rod bearings.
Right rod bearings.
Right rod bearings.
Right rod end.
Right rod end.
Right piston.
Right piston.
Left rod bearings.
Left rod bearings.
Left piston.
Left piston.
Looking down left cylinder bore.
Looking down right cylinder bore.
Debris in the pan behind where the oil pump sits.
Rod cap access port for right cylinder.
Oil pump removed.
Clutch lifter plate and springs removed.
Getting the engine unseized.
Engine dropped!
Only 5 bolts hold the engine to the frame.
The rear exhaust mounts share a hardpoint with the rear footpegs.
Its easier to remove the footpegs rather than remove the mounting plate.
Alternator & crank signal wires bottom center of the engine.
Starter hot lead to the left.
Between the cylinders, behind the heat shield are the connectors for the oil pressure switch and temperature.
To the right of the stator cover is the wire for the neutral indicator switch.
The difference in appearance between the left and the right cylinder heads isn't just lighting -- the right head is newer.
Rear of the engine block.
Right cylinder head & valve rocker assembly.
Facing intake port.
Left cylinder head & valve rocker assembly.
Exhaust port facing left.
Inside the rear cover.
See all the nasty chips and sludge?
Rounded brass nub in lower left is the neutral switch.
Valve covers, clutch housing, front cover.
Oil filter housing peeking out from the bottom of the pile.
Left cylinder & piston.
Some scoring on the cylinder wall right above piston?
Left cylinder.
Left cylinder.
Left cylinder.
Right cylinder.
Right cylinder.
Right cylinder.
Right cylinder.
Right cylinder.
Front of engine.
Cooling fan taper on camshaft visible top center.
Clutch.
What is with the crazy split gear driving the oil pump chain?
Oil pump and oil pump drive chain, sprokets.
Attempting to look past the oil pump up towards the crank.
Looking past the oil pump pickup line.
Camshaft in there somewhere.
Looking for camshaft, other side.
Left cylinder head.
Right cylinder head.
Heads, right on left, left on right.
Left head.
Right head.
21,637 miles.
$300 on Craigslist